Shot in 1993 by Bharat Sikka and blown up in print by Thompson using a four-colour ultra-violet gloss technique, Milind Soman's black and red desert chieftain ensemble with a matching turban in the Tantrik Art series acquires a shine. The surface of the silk appears as a separate texture against the matte printing paper.

'The printing technologies are new. We have used a special screening device whereby you get a contrast as if the dress is floating out of the picture. It is done with a coating of ultra-violet agents that adds glitter and three-dimensional solid texture to the surface of the photographic print. We have also embellished the prints with Swarovksi crystal,' C.J. Jassawala, the executive director of printing at Thomson Press, told IANS.

The retrospective stands out for the prints of some of Varma's famous creations featuring Milind Soman and Madhu Sapre, shot in 1995 by Bonny Hazuria, shows the pair clad in medieval European creations as Queen Marie Antoniette and Maximilien Robespierre, the founder of the revolutionary Terror Party in France.

The four-colour print using 'abrasive ultra-violet' technique is a fusion of black-and-white background with coloured clothes. The figures, highlighted by special treatment on a special Curious Village Ivory printing paper, almost step out of the picture.

'Fashion photography and printing processes are more sophisticated now. We believe in innovating with the latest digital printing technology and marrying fashion photography and printing for better effects. India is now wearing fashion up on its sleeve,' Sujata Assomull, the editor of Harper Bazaar, told IANS.

Fashion has changed dramatically over the last two decades, Varma said.

'It is no more the way people dress, but a lifestyle statement. Women have also changed, they are not demure any more. The arrival of Malaika Arora Khan changed the perception about women, I think. Indians are more well-travelled and open to new styles.'